中国传统服饰英文PPT.ppt 71页

Chinesetraditionalcostumes ChineseCostumesTheChinesecostume,whichhasover5,000years’history,isjustlikealongriver.Andtodaywe’llpresenttheminthreeparts,HanDynasty,TangDynastyandQingDynasty.Part1HanFuPart2CostumeinTangDynastyPart3Cheongsam HanFu HanfuisalsoknownasHanzhuangorHuafu，isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,"thenmanycametotheCourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan."（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度） StandardstylehistorySpecificstyleGallerybody HistoryHanfuhasahistoryofmorethanthreemillennia,andissaidtohavebeenwornbythelegendaryYellowEmperor.Fromthebeginningofitshistory,Hanfu(especiallyinelitecircles)wasinseparablefromsilk,supposedlydiscoveredbytheYellowEmperor’sconsort,Leizu. TheShangDynastydevelopedtherudimentsofHanfu;itconsistedofayi,andchang,wornwithabixi,.Vividprimarycolorsandgreenwereused,duetothedegreeoftechnologyatthetime. theWesternZhouDynasty，theHanfubecamelooser,withtheintroductionofwidesleevesandjadedecorationshungfromthesashwhichservedtokeeptheyiclosed.Theyiwasessentiallywrappedover,inastyleknownasjiaolingyouren,orwrappingtherightsideoverbeforetheleft IntheEasternZhouDynasty，the“deeprobe”(shenyi深衣)appearedacombinationoftunic（束腰外衣）andskirt.Theupperandlowerhalveswerecutseparatelybutsewnasasingleunit.Anadditionalchangewastheshapingoftheleftsideofthecostumeintoacorner,fastenedonthechest. women men SinceSongandYuan,officialrecordusedHanfutoindicategarmentsHanswearDuringLiaodynasty,theemperorofLiaoandHanofficialswearHanfu,andEmpressandKhitan（契丹）officialsweartheirnationalclothing.DuringYuandynasty,wheneditingHistoryofLiao,theofficialsespeciallymadeanentryforHanfu Theterm"Hanfu"todescribetheclothingsystemofHans,wasnotoftenusedwithinHans,butwasmoreoftenusedinotherethnicgroupsandnations,todistinguishtheHansclothingsystemandtheirownclothingsystem StandardstyleHatandheaddressInformaldressSemi-formalFormaldressCourtdress Hatandheadwear--garmentThestyleofHanChineseclothingcanbesummarizedascontaininggarmentelementsthatarearrangedindistinctiveandsometimesspecificways.ThismaybedifferentfromthetraditionalgarmentofotherethnicgroupsinChina,mostnotablytheManchu-influencedChineseclothes,theqipao,whichispopularlyassumedtobethesolelyrecognizablestyleof"traditional"Chinesegarb.Acomparisonofthetwostylescanbeseenasthefollowingprovides Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexesPao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymeninHanfuRu(襦):Opencross-collarshirtShan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyiQun(裙)orchang(裳):SkirtforwomenandmenKu(褲):Trousersorpants Ontopofthegarments,hats(formen)orhairpieces(forwomen)maybeworn.Onecanoftentelltheprofessionorsocialrankofsomeonebywhattheywearontheirheads.Thetypicaltypesofmaleheadweararecalledjin(巾)forsoftcaps,mao(帽)forastiffhatsandguan(冠)forformalheaddress.Officialsandacademicshaveaseparatesetofhatsforthem,typicallytheputou(幞頭),thewushamao(烏紗帽),thesi-fangpingdingjin(四方平定巾;orsimply,fangjin:方巾)andtheZhuangzijin(莊子巾).Atypicalhairpieceforwomenisaji(笄)buttherearemoreelaboratehairpieces. InformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders,withterminologieschangorqun),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes(shenyi). (中衣)orzhongdan(中單):innergarments,mostlywhitecottonorsilk(衫裙):ashortcoatwithalongskirtRuqun(襦裙):atopgarmentwithaseparatelowergarmentorskirt(褲褶):ashortcoatwithtrousersZhiduo/zhishen(直裰/直身):aMingDynastystylerobe,similartoazhijushenyibutwithventsatthesideand"stitchedsleeves"(i.e.thesleevecuffisclosedsaveasmallopeningforthehandtogothrough)Daopao/Fusha(道袍/彿裟):Taoist/Buddhistpriests"fulldressceremonialrobes AtypicalsetofHanfucanconsistoftwoorthreelayersThefirstlayerofclothingismostlythezhongyi(中衣)whichistypicallytheinnergarmentmuchlikeaWesternT-shirtandpants.Thenextlayeristhemainlayerofclothingwhichismostlyclosedatthefront.Therecanbeanoptionalthirdlayerwhichisoftenanovercoatcalledazhaoshanwhichisopenatthefront. Semi-formaldressApieceofHanfucanbe"madesemi-formal"bytheadditionofthefollowingappropriateitems:chang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbeltzhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatguan(冠)oranyformalhats FormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe;equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfullbodygarment(曲裾):diagonalbodywrapping(直裾):straightlapelsYuanlingshan(圓領衫),lanshan(襴衫)orpanlingpao(盤領袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialoracademicaldress CourtdressCourtdressisthedresswornatveryformaloccasionsandceremoniesthatareinthepresenceofamonarch(suchasanenthronementceremony).Theentireensembleofclothingcanconsistofmanycomplexlayersandlookveryelaborate.Courtdressissimilartothexuanduanincomponentsbuthaveadditionaladornmentsandelaborateheadwear.Theyareoftenbrightlycoloredwithvermillionandblue.Therearevariousversionsofcourtdressthatarewornforcertainoccasions. SpecificStyleHistorically,HanClothinghasinfluencedmanyofitsneighbouringculturalcostumes,suchasJapanesekimono,yukata,KoreanHanbokandtheVietnameseáotứthân.ElementsofHanfuhavealsobeeninfluencedbyneighbouringculturalcostumes,especiallybythenomadicpeoplestothenorth,andCentralAsianculturestothewestbywayoftheSilkRoad. gallery notes CostumeinTangDynasty 1、ThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangdynasty2、ThefeaturesofcostumeinTangdynasty3、HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing? BriefIntroductionTheclothingmaterialswereexquisite（精美的）Thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegantAdornmentsweresplendidComplimentedbyelaboratehairstyle,ornamentsandfacemakeup Thegeneralfeaturesofwomen’scostumeinTangdynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposedarm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）largesleeves5）longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid. Thisisthefamouspicture《簪花侍女图》showingaladystrollinginthecourtTheladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thiswascalled“topless”（上空装，袒胸装）Mindedness:theopen-mindedstate“绮罗纤缕见肌肤”“蝉翼罗衣白玉人” Theopenclothingstyleanditssoftnessandlightnessmakethewomen’scostumeinTangdynastysouniqueanddistinctive. TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueimageinitself. Ingeneral,theTangwomen"sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:（1）ThetraditionalruqunordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina Pattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）iswornbywomen.Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalledit“交领襦裙”.Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalledit“对襟襦裙”.Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt，wecancalledthem“齐腰襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Or“齐胸襦裙”——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest. （2）thehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoad;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys)，thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalities拘谨,礼节. AfterthereignofTangEmperorGaozong,purplewasusedasthegarmentcolorforofficialsabovethethirdgrade;lightred,officialsabovethefifthgrade;darkgreen. officialsabovethesixthgrade;lightgreen,officialsabovetheseventhgrade;darkcyan,officialsabovetheeighthgrade;lightcyan,officialsabovetheninthgrade;andyellow,ordinarypeopleandthosewhodidnotliveinthepalace. HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing? First,inChinesehistory,theTangDynasty(AD618-907)wasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance. Second,Basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevariety,qualityandquantityoftextilematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight. Thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid. Asanimportantculturalelement,woman’scostumeinvariousformsintheTangDynastywellillustratestheopen-mindednessandaffluenceduringthatperiod. Third,TheTanggovernmentwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD)andtheSuiDynasty(581-618),theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions. Willyouacceptyourgirlfriends/yourselvesdressingveryopen? Cheongsam OriginDevelopment Origin——nameThenamecheongsammeaningsimplylongdressenteredtheEnglishvocabularyfromthedialectofChina"sGuangdongProvince.InotherpartsofthecountryincludingBeijing,however,itisknownas"qipao",whichhasahistorybehindit. ●QingDynasty(1644),Manchu,BannerPeople(qiren).●1645Shunzhi,“TifaYifu”Policy(剃发易服)thenext300years,becameadoptedbytheChinese.●Survivedthepoliticalturmoilofthe1911XinhaiRevolutiontoppledtheQingDynasty.Thehistoryofcheongsam Thedetailsofcheongsam●shirtisnotexposed(衫不露外)●theright-sidelapel[lə"pel]ofjunction[ˈdʒʌŋkʃən]decoratedwithbuttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)●clothingplusclothing(衣外加衣)●increasewaistcoat["weɪskəʊt]orjacket(增加坎肩或马褂) ●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手)●setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋) Frog盘扣Openings衩 Embroidery[ɪm"brɔɪdərɪ]刺绣Frontofagarment襟 DevelopmentFrom1914to1949 DevelopmentFrom1914to1949 1930~1940，Peakperiodwestern-stylecuttingmethodstandardclothingofthemodernChinesewomen1920s1930s1940s Qipao(Ch"ipau)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm.ItcandisplayChinesewomen"smodesty,softnessandbeauty.Today,withthedevelopmentofthemarketeconomyinChina,Qipaohasbeentheattentionofthewholeworld,andbecomestherepresentativeofChinesebeauty. SoongQinglingthewifeofSunYat-sen,agreatwomaninChinaSoongMaylingSheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld. TheMoodforLove AsaformalcostumeswhichrepresentournationalculturefrequentlyappearesintheiInternationaloccasions. Firstlady’sstyle Chinaisahistoricalcountrywithsplendidcivilizations,inwhichtheChinesecostumeisanimportantpart.FromthechangeofChinesecostumes,wecanseethepoliticalchange,economicdevelopmentandcustomsevolvementthroughthelonghistory.Let’sfellowthehistory’sstep,composeanewchapterfortheChinesecostumeculture! Thanksforyourattention!